There is quite a lot left to cover in this last post, plus I have finally received a whole lot of photos from Judy and Zvika; I’ll try to fit it all in but I warn you: this will be long!

Our first port of call from Masindi is  known as the “Royal Mile”: a wide track through tall well-preserved forest, hopping with rare birds. I am a bit concerned that this might not be everyone’s cup of tea – the birds  move around quickly high up in the canopy – but there are some easy ones too: White-thighed Hornbills for example. The forest is lovely and somehow everyone spreads out, moving at their own pace, communing with the great trees, or, in my case,  ticking off Rufous Flycatcher-thrush and numerous other new species. Adyeri (Yehudit) and I find a Woodpecker’s nest and incur Zvika’s wrath for not marking the location; we thought we could find it again, but there are so many trees….

We enjoy a picnic in the magical forest and head back to Masindi for our luggage and coffee at Hemingway’s Bar while Zvika, Judy and myself head off to the market with Hilary to buy some bags for excess luggage. Back on the road we head north to Murchison Falls N.Park. An hour or so along the dusty road we pass the park gate and enter Budongo Forest and turn off to the eco-lodge where we are to stay. It is early afternoon, hot and still. The staff appear one at a time and welcome us and we are assigned to cabins in the woods. I was a bit worried this might be a bit “basic” (compost toilets etc.), but the cabins are beautiful and spacious and there is time for a siesta (and a far off glimpse of some Black-billed Turacos for me)  before we set out for a short evening exploration along the road. We are hoping for Colobus Monkeys (we saw a few briefly in the morning and on the drive) but are quite happy with some forest birds,  butterflies and – of course – Baboons.

The plan had been to go Chimp-trekking next morning – I hadn’t been too sure how well things would go in Kibale and had booked this as a back-up. We could skip this now and instead I had arranged a forest walk. However James,one of the lodge’s guides is a very keen birder and so I arrange to go birding with him myself, and though tempted to have a break from the group, I invite the more ornithologically inclined (Zvika, Tsila and Yehudit) to join me (though I warn we might not see much).

Indeed,while the others enjoyed a later start and learned about the forest trees and heard some chimps hooting, we did see just a few birds (and, very briefly, a Blue Duiker),  but  a stunning male Narina Trogon that responded to a call and came and perched on a branch above us made it all worth while.

Our time in the forest is over and we head out on the road  to the Nile ferry. On the way we finally get a good look at some Colobus Monkeys (we have the roof open, in spite of the dust, just for this). At the ferry we have a bit of a wait and time to check out some birds and Agama lizards or just watch the water flowing past.

Finally we cross and rush to report for our cruise (we are a little late); however it seems there is no boat and we will have to go tomorrow instead. I am a bit suspicious and try to push things around but it is no good. So we check in to our rooms at Paraa lodge and take a break. The lodge, though run by the same lot as the rather sleepy Mweya is quite a different place. The staff are happy and upbeat, all meals are buffet (not the painfully slow table service we had to sit through at Mweya) and the whole vibe is good.

Well rested we set off for an evening game-drive. We see  various animals, including the cute little Oribi antelopes and this and that. Some nice birds – Abyssinian Roller, Carmine Bee-eaters – it’s a nice relaxed evening.  At one point Hilary excitedly points out some birds in an Acacia – White-crested Turacos! They fly across the road and in to another distant tree. They are hard to see, but while the others try in vain to get a look I check the tree they came from and there, just for a brief instant, I see through my binoculars a perfect view of one Turaco standing and checking us out before turning away and flying off. Not a common bird, and I now have 4 Turacos on my trip list.

It’s been a good day and it gets even better when we discover the dessert table at dinner. Quite amazing really. I just eat some salad for my main course to leave space. The whole group are worried that we may never see Saul again, but he , as ever, takes it in his stride. There are about 5 different cakes, various flans and chocolate this and thats, all sorts of sauces – never mind the fruit. I pig out unashamedly and go to bed very happy.

Next morning we set out early. We are targeting Lions today; so far we have just had a glimpse of one’s ear and it would be nice to see some properly. Hilary has a friend in a car up ahead of us who works out of the lodge and knows where to look. It seems the good areas are a bit of a way towards Lake Albert so we drive for about an hour untill we start seeing big herds of Uganda Kob. Hilary’s friend is still far ahead but to me this looks fine and we slow down and start looking at the animals and birds. There is lots to see.  We find some Jackals being followed around by the Magpie-like Piapiacs. Large herds of Buffaloes are on the move raising clouds of dust as they head for their water-holes. Girraffes amble along and far-off we spot a Pattas Monkey in an Acacia. Birds everywhere, including the ungainly Abyssinian Ground-Hornbill.

While we take our time with  Hornbills, Monkeys and Giraffes, other cars pass by us – stopping to check what we are looking at (only a Jackal?) and heading on towards the delta area where Lions are reputed to be. Hilary’s friend has reported a siting but very poor views so we stay with our relaxed pace and don’t go chasing after the rest.  And it pays off: we come up to a single car watching a solitary Lioness just out in the open about 30 metres from the road. Perfect, couldn’t ask for better. She is relaxed, a beautiful animal in perfect shape and we have plenty of time to enjoy her before all the other cars come hareing back from wherever they where.

We go on for a bit – picking up some nice birds (the spectacular Black-billed Barbet) and taking time to photograph Buffaloes before calling it a morning (a fine one) and heading back to the lodge for lunch (also a fine one!).

Now it’s time for the long-awaited boat trip. We drive down to the ferry dock and park the car in the shade – Hilary has a bit of a scare as a window won’t close and there is a large male Baboon making eyes at the car. However finally he gets it shut and joins us as we impatiently go through the long signing in process and finally are off on to the river.

The swampy bits alongside are a delight – packed with interesting birds (besides huge crocodiles): Purple Swamp-hens, Whistling Ducks, Crakes and all sorts of Herons. Kingfishers of all sizes and shapes and the multicoloured Bee-eaters. There are plenty of animals too: Elephants shiny with mud, Waterbuck and even a giraffe.

There was a lot to see! Things got really exciting when we pulled in to a little sandy beach and there was a bird I had only ever seen pictures of: a Nile Plover – the famous Crocodile Bird (the one that picks food out of crocodile’s mouths). It’s not really supposed to be here, only further north and west so this is a real bonus. It’s not shy at all and we can really have a good look at this special and pretty bird. We go on and reach the Falls (Murchison’s) they are pretty good, but much better are the Rock Pratincoles – another rare bird – flying around and perching on the rocks!

We head back downstream, stopping for as many Swamp-hens and Storks and whatnots as the time permits.  Zvika (who is actually a teenager though he may not look it) has a go at driving the boat for the last stretch – speeding down the Nile with the warm wind in your hair, it doesn’t get much better than that.

Back on land we all agree that although there is still time for a short drive, it’s enough for today. This has been such a fantastic afternoon it seems a waste to go poking around for some Bush-shrike or whatever. Anyway, when we get to the car we find that the Baboon, unable to break in, has instead defecated all over the windows; for the short drive to the lodge the smell is just bearable.  (This Baboon attacked a woman while we standing by the car and it seems continued to attack people later – the Park rangers shot him  that night. The group where a bit shocked by this but such behaviour is not normal for Baboons and this one may have been infected with rabies or otherwise unwell).

We set off with the first ferry next morning. We have a long drive, all the way to Entebbe. Most of the day we are on the road, watching the country pass by. African roads are very  different from the dull, monotonous highways we know in the west. There is so much life – people and markets and colour – that  we enjoy our long drive (except perhaps for Hilary who has to drive!).

We make one stop at Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary. Here, in a small patch of wilderness, White Rhinos are living and breeding, in preparation for re-introduction to other protected areas in Uganda.  We are taken for a walk in to the bush by Thomas the guide to meet some Rhinos (they are used to people – so it isn’t really dangerous).

It’s hot and the Rhinos are in the shade under some scrubby trees. We stand quite close and look; after a while, cameras and phones satisfied, we just watch them, the baby nuzzling his mum, such gentleness in these huge animals. They get up and move, searching for better shade and we follow for a bit, then leave them and head back to the visitor center for our packed lunch and some really awful Coffee. I can’t really say what it is, but everyone is deeply touched by the experience; it is a very fitting end to our trip.

There’s more to tell –  how the engine stalled and Zvika started it with a cigarette lighter,  almost getting lost in Kampala,  a flat tire 10 km before Entebbe and so on ; but really enough is enough, this is a good place to stop.  I’ll just leave you with some pictures (now that I have so many to choose from) from the whole trip, from Uganda – a lovely country.